Monday, 27 September 2010
Last news before picking
27/09/2010 : The last rainfall of last thursday and friday (sept 23 and 24) gave us 13 mm of water which realease the vignes from drought at the door step from the picking. I already noticed that the last rain started to tender the skins of the berries and make them growing bigger which is a good sign. Since last friday (sept 24), the temperatures dropped down and should stay at a low level all this week with minimum T° of 5°C and maximum T° around 21°C which is about 5 degrees lower than the average. This is not going to speed the maturity of the grappes. It looks like the picking day is going to be later than expected. Some heat would help the maturity to come quicker; instead we need some more time.
Monday, 21 June 2010
2010 vintage. How is it going?
It is about time we reviewed the current vintage. It is now June and a few things have happened, so the emerging 2010 vintage can be contemplated with a certain degree of perspective.
Last winter was what I call a proper winter. It was cold like winters should be and the cold lasted right through to the end. I don’t follow rainfall from October to February, because the rain gauge breaks when it freezes, but it seems, in looking the stats that we had a normal a amount of rain.
We didn’t have any real warmth until April, when a good ten-day spell of heat kick-started vine growth. Up to then the vines still had a distinctly wintry look about them. We quickly returned to cold weather at the end of April and at the beginning of May, which was sharp and longer than usual, and really halted the growth of vegetation. We got through the period when frosts can do damage at the end of April, but only by the skin of our teeth at the full moon on the 28th. May really only started to warm up in its second fortnight, but we didn’t see growth take off as clearly and vigorously as we would like at this time of year. The vines began to flower in the last week of May at Laroze, where the ground is warm and early. The Merlot vines flowered in damp conditions which were colder than average, but the fine weather and normal temperatures finally returned the following week with a breeze just right to promote good fertilisation of the flowers. The earliest Merlot vines will doubtless display poor fruit set and “hens and chickens”. The later Merlot will be good, as should all the Cabernet, which flowered splendidly. The Merlot vines flower longer over time.
At the same time there was an early lack of water in the ground, which slowed initial growth down even more. Rainfall was significantly low in March, April and May, when it rained 30% less than the seasonal average, which is enormous. This represents a shortage of about 100 mm of rain in these three months that begin the growth cycle. One of the consequences of this is that the goodness in the organic material that was spread on the plots of vines that were lacking a little in vigour in spring, did not penetrate the soil, so the vines did not receive the boost at the time when they most needed it. As a result, growth is quite irregular in mid-June with a lot of bunches on stalks, which are sometimes a little short and with too few leaves, which will not be enough to feed all the fruit adequately. The bottom line is there are too many mouths to feed and not enough food on the vines which didn’t get enough water and warmth at the right time.
So the specific characteristics of the beginning of the 2010 vintage are a winter that lasted and spring drought, which will leave their mark in different ways depending on the different terroirs and what happens next in the ensuing seasons.
It is quite unusual to see drought setting in so early, with lawns already slightly brown and underground drain outlets showing so little flow.
The hydric stress of the vines that we hope occurs in August so that the fruit ripens well, is coming a month and a half early. This will have an impact depending on the weather that follows.
However, we don’t want the 100 mm of missing rain to fall now or lasting bad weather to set in. We hope that storms will deliver the water required at regular intervals so that the vines will be regularly fed, but without any damage from hail or flooding.
We will take what God sees fit to give us and the different terroirs’ water retention capacity will do the rest.
Whatever happens, the intelligence of the winegrower also has a role to play and we will adapt what we do in the vineyard to promote the retention of water in the soil and reduce transpiration loss by trimming lower parts of the vines and destroying the patches of grass between the rows.
I was a little taken aback a few days ago to see that some of my colleagues thought that everything was fine as the year begins. They could well receive a rude awakening later on.
Every year is different and if the conditions are identified properly and well understood by the vinegrower, he can reduce the impact on the quality of the fruit and optimise the quality of the wines produced. This is what our profession is all about and what is at the heart of the passion that drives us to live so close to Nature and work in conjunction with her.
Last winter was what I call a proper winter. It was cold like winters should be and the cold lasted right through to the end. I don’t follow rainfall from October to February, because the rain gauge breaks when it freezes, but it seems, in looking the stats that we had a normal a amount of rain.
We didn’t have any real warmth until April, when a good ten-day spell of heat kick-started vine growth. Up to then the vines still had a distinctly wintry look about them. We quickly returned to cold weather at the end of April and at the beginning of May, which was sharp and longer than usual, and really halted the growth of vegetation. We got through the period when frosts can do damage at the end of April, but only by the skin of our teeth at the full moon on the 28th. May really only started to warm up in its second fortnight, but we didn’t see growth take off as clearly and vigorously as we would like at this time of year. The vines began to flower in the last week of May at Laroze, where the ground is warm and early. The Merlot vines flowered in damp conditions which were colder than average, but the fine weather and normal temperatures finally returned the following week with a breeze just right to promote good fertilisation of the flowers. The earliest Merlot vines will doubtless display poor fruit set and “hens and chickens”. The later Merlot will be good, as should all the Cabernet, which flowered splendidly. The Merlot vines flower longer over time.
At the same time there was an early lack of water in the ground, which slowed initial growth down even more. Rainfall was significantly low in March, April and May, when it rained 30% less than the seasonal average, which is enormous. This represents a shortage of about 100 mm of rain in these three months that begin the growth cycle. One of the consequences of this is that the goodness in the organic material that was spread on the plots of vines that were lacking a little in vigour in spring, did not penetrate the soil, so the vines did not receive the boost at the time when they most needed it. As a result, growth is quite irregular in mid-June with a lot of bunches on stalks, which are sometimes a little short and with too few leaves, which will not be enough to feed all the fruit adequately. The bottom line is there are too many mouths to feed and not enough food on the vines which didn’t get enough water and warmth at the right time.
So the specific characteristics of the beginning of the 2010 vintage are a winter that lasted and spring drought, which will leave their mark in different ways depending on the different terroirs and what happens next in the ensuing seasons.
It is quite unusual to see drought setting in so early, with lawns already slightly brown and underground drain outlets showing so little flow.
The hydric stress of the vines that we hope occurs in August so that the fruit ripens well, is coming a month and a half early. This will have an impact depending on the weather that follows.
However, we don’t want the 100 mm of missing rain to fall now or lasting bad weather to set in. We hope that storms will deliver the water required at regular intervals so that the vines will be regularly fed, but without any damage from hail or flooding.
We will take what God sees fit to give us and the different terroirs’ water retention capacity will do the rest.
Whatever happens, the intelligence of the winegrower also has a role to play and we will adapt what we do in the vineyard to promote the retention of water in the soil and reduce transpiration loss by trimming lower parts of the vines and destroying the patches of grass between the rows.
I was a little taken aback a few days ago to see that some of my colleagues thought that everything was fine as the year begins. They could well receive a rude awakening later on.
Every year is different and if the conditions are identified properly and well understood by the vinegrower, he can reduce the impact on the quality of the fruit and optimise the quality of the wines produced. This is what our profession is all about and what is at the heart of the passion that drives us to live so close to Nature and work in conjunction with her.
Friday, 30 April 2010
Robert Parker
A fruity, elegant, soft St Emilion meant to be consumed over the next 6-8 years, the 2009 Laroze exhibits sandy, loamy soil notes intermixed with hints of toasted herbs, sweat black cherries, and currants. This easy-going wine will have broad appeal. 86/88
(It seems like Mr Parker is the only one to have missed the real qualities of this wine...(G.Meslin)
(It seems like Mr Parker is the only one to have missed the real qualities of this wine...(G.Meslin)
Wednesday, 28 April 2010
Notes on the notes
I’ve finished reviewing the press response to the 2009 primeurs, or at least those I am aware of. In overall terms, the general message is that Laroze’s position amongst the Saint-Emilion crus classés has moved upwards with an average score of 16-17, which is very good from the journalists who habitually give fairly low scores, and a little low for those who tend to mark higher.
I often feel there is a mismatch between the quality of the tasting comments, which are enthusiastic and the score, which still remains quite inhibited, as if the journalist was afraid of letting go. It is a lot easier for them to be more generous with strong, well-known brands, because there is no risk for them except that of over-evaluating the wine. They have to stick their necks out to be generous about Laroze. So I have a clear vision of how I need to work with them to get them to know Laroze better, especially the older vintages, which often display surprisingly long-lasting youth in their aromatic freshness. Jean-Marc Quarin is an example: author of an enormous in-depth review of Bordeaux wines, having published his 13th report today, was the first commentator some years ago to discover that Laroze was capable of producing some fine successes.
The arrival of Hubert de Boüard in Laroze’s team of technical advisors brings visibility and credibility for journalists, which will reassure them and strengthen their belief that Laroze is a fully reliable Saint-Emilion, which it would be a shame to omit from one’s cellar.
I often feel there is a mismatch between the quality of the tasting comments, which are enthusiastic and the score, which still remains quite inhibited, as if the journalist was afraid of letting go. It is a lot easier for them to be more generous with strong, well-known brands, because there is no risk for them except that of over-evaluating the wine. They have to stick their necks out to be generous about Laroze. So I have a clear vision of how I need to work with them to get them to know Laroze better, especially the older vintages, which often display surprisingly long-lasting youth in their aromatic freshness. Jean-Marc Quarin is an example: author of an enormous in-depth review of Bordeaux wines, having published his 13th report today, was the first commentator some years ago to discover that Laroze was capable of producing some fine successes.
The arrival of Hubert de Boüard in Laroze’s team of technical advisors brings visibility and credibility for journalists, which will reassure them and strengthen their belief that Laroze is a fully reliable Saint-Emilion, which it would be a shame to omit from one’s cellar.
Tuesday, 27 April 2010
La Revue du Vin de France 16/17
Magnificently well-made vintage. Dense, very floral, complex bouquet. Full and sensual on the palate with tasty tannins. Nice and ripe, but remains very fresh. The wine has become bigger and riper, and the tannins are much smoother.16/17 (Philippe Maurange)
BETTANE & DESSEAUVE 16,5-17/20
This cru classé, located between Libourne and Saint-Émilion has been using organic methods for a while now. Now advised by Hubert de Boüard, Laroze has held on to its pure, non-pretentious style, while smoothing the edges of a wine that can sometimes be a little abrupt. 16,5-17/20
Wednesday, 21 April 2010
Niel Martin Primeur 2009
« Tasted at Angélus.This has a very ripe, apricot, fig and black cherry scented nose that has noticeable warm alcohol. Very plush and with a lot of creamy new oak. The palate is very supple and rounded on the entry, slightly lower acidity than others, harmonious with supple black cherry, boysenberry and date; lush and generous towards the finish. Tasted March 2010.” 88-90.
Wednesday, 7 April 2010
James Suckling
Blueberry and mineral aromas. Follow through to a medium body with fine tannins and a medium finish.
Decanter rating 2009
Three stars only for Laroze but with 16-plus, which is the best score in the three stars category, just a little step before to get in the four stars.
Within the 57 Grand Crus Classés, it puts us back to the 20th position. JM.Quarin put us in the five/seven best wines.
"A very pretty wine this year. Ripe, fragrant,gentle and restrained. Supple fruit with a fine tannic frame. Drink 2014-2024"
Within the 57 Grand Crus Classés, it puts us back to the 20th position. JM.Quarin put us in the five/seven best wines.
"A very pretty wine this year. Ripe, fragrant,gentle and restrained. Supple fruit with a fine tannic frame. Drink 2014-2024"
Thursday, 1 April 2010
Laroze invited at Angélus
This week as the 2009 primeurs are being tasted, we are at Château Angélus with Hubert de Boüard, amongst the wines made on family estates and the growing number of properties where Hubert is involved as an advisor - today about 20.
I asked Hubert in 2009 to join our technical team at Laroze and to help us build a higher profile with journalists, wine importers and distributors worldwide. These are the people, who are coming to Angélus this week from all over the world. Some are getting to know Laroze for the first time and others are seeing it again from a different perspective.
We are hoping that this cooperation will make Laroze better known and recognised for the premium quality of its wines, and help us to build a greater reputation.
The setting of Château Angélus, its renown and the wonderful conditions for tasting here are certainly steps in the right direction.
Laroze is also present at Château Grand-Pontet, where the wines of the 46 Saint-Emilion Grand Crus Classés are on display.
I asked Hubert in 2009 to join our technical team at Laroze and to help us build a higher profile with journalists, wine importers and distributors worldwide. These are the people, who are coming to Angélus this week from all over the world. Some are getting to know Laroze for the first time and others are seeing it again from a different perspective.
We are hoping that this cooperation will make Laroze better known and recognised for the premium quality of its wines, and help us to build a greater reputation.
The setting of Château Angélus, its renown and the wonderful conditions for tasting here are certainly steps in the right direction.
Laroze is also present at Château Grand-Pontet, where the wines of the 46 Saint-Emilion Grand Crus Classés are on display.
Tuesday, 30 March 2010
JM.Quarin Laroze 2009
16.5
The best score I have given this wine en primeur
Laroze is an outsider in Saint-Emilion – you just need to take note of the quality today of the 2003, 2005 and 2008. So Guy Meslin continues to improve his quality patiently, thoughtfully and discretely. He clearly seeks to achieve long-term results: Laroze is often better at the end of ageing and in the bottle than as a primeur. I tasted all the separate batches very enthusiastically, then the final blend three times with the score this high.
The robe is dark, intense and pretty. The bouquet is elegant, fruity and subtly woody. It is initially smooth and melts in the mouth, then develops to become broad and juicy with finely chiselled texture. There is similar precision in how the fruit is expressed. The mid-palate is very juicy and the wine ends up full of flavour and impossible to spit out. It has a very strong impression of pulp and is more hedonistic than the 2005
The best score I have given this wine en primeur
Laroze is an outsider in Saint-Emilion – you just need to take note of the quality today of the 2003, 2005 and 2008. So Guy Meslin continues to improve his quality patiently, thoughtfully and discretely. He clearly seeks to achieve long-term results: Laroze is often better at the end of ageing and in the bottle than as a primeur. I tasted all the separate batches very enthusiastically, then the final blend three times with the score this high.
The robe is dark, intense and pretty. The bouquet is elegant, fruity and subtly woody. It is initially smooth and melts in the mouth, then develops to become broad and juicy with finely chiselled texture. There is similar precision in how the fruit is expressed. The mid-palate is very juicy and the wine ends up full of flavour and impossible to spit out. It has a very strong impression of pulp and is more hedonistic than the 2005
Friday, 12 March 2010
A long, cold winter
A long, cold winter still with temperatures well below zero in the week from 7 to 13 March and morning frosts down to minus 7°C. This suits us fine, because it delays the start of growth in the vines and lessens the risk of damage from morning frosts in April. This year the April full moon falls late in the month and a last cold snap could always surprise us around the 28th, when it comes.
Wednesday, 6 May 2009
Gold Medal: Laroze 2006
At « Concours Mondial de Bruxelles », the past april 25,26,27th. This international recognition places Laroze 2006 at the rank of the very best wines produced around the world. We are very proud of it!
Monday, 4 May 2009
Gold Medal: Laroze 2003.
Women and wine: a very wide subject full of promise. During the "féminalise" competition on 23 April, the exclusively women tasters saluted the great quality of the 2003 vintage. This is a delightful nod to my family history because the Laroze estate was founded by a woman in 1882 (my great, great grandmother) and handed down by another in the 60’s (my grandmother).
Our soils of silica on top of clay produces wines, whose rich, powerful tannins meld into a subtle and elegant mouth feel that suits the feminine palate.
Women with good taste are not too keen on hard, rustic tannins and they are quite right.
I would like to thank all the lady tasters and wish this competition a fine future which I hope will become more and more international.
Our soils of silica on top of clay produces wines, whose rich, powerful tannins meld into a subtle and elegant mouth feel that suits the feminine palate.
Women with good taste are not too keen on hard, rustic tannins and they are quite right.
I would like to thank all the lady tasters and wish this competition a fine future which I hope will become more and more international.
Laroze Primeurs tasting: 15-16/20
The château produces a modern, flattering style of wine. The 2008 seems to be of this pattern with a solid, no-nonsense attack, and lovely volume. It is big on the palate, the fruit appears to be very ripe, slightly crystallised and the imposing tannins are still a little sharp. The whole thing needs to meld, and then the wine will be appealing and lavish.
RVF (La Revue des vins de France)
RVF (La Revue des vins de France)
Thursday, 9 April 2009
Laroze 2008 Primeurs (16)
Guy Meslin continues to develop quality, offering us his 2008 that has the same lineage as the 2005 and 2003.
The bouquet is intense and pretty. The nose is distinctively fruity with floral and creamy undertones. It strokes the palate, then becomes silky and pulpy, while taking on size in the middle. It goes on with heaps of flavour and a hint of very ripe raspberry. It really builds up then finishes long, smooth and quite complex. It has lovely aromatic and tannic layers on the palate, without any harshness in the least.
The estate was hit by hail on 28 July, which made the fruit very irregular, even on the same bunch. M. Meslin told me he spent €85,000 to select the best grapes, and for the first time, 15% of the wine was sold off as generic. The final yield was 28 hectolitres per hectare. Blend: 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. Alcohol content: 13.2°.
Jean-Marc Quarin www.quarin.com
(fifth best score of the Grands Crus Classés. I think that this score should be higher considering the quality of the comment)GM.
The bouquet is intense and pretty. The nose is distinctively fruity with floral and creamy undertones. It strokes the palate, then becomes silky and pulpy, while taking on size in the middle. It goes on with heaps of flavour and a hint of very ripe raspberry. It really builds up then finishes long, smooth and quite complex. It has lovely aromatic and tannic layers on the palate, without any harshness in the least.
The estate was hit by hail on 28 July, which made the fruit very irregular, even on the same bunch. M. Meslin told me he spent €85,000 to select the best grapes, and for the first time, 15% of the wine was sold off as generic. The final yield was 28 hectolitres per hectare. Blend: 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. Alcohol content: 13.2°.
Jean-Marc Quarin www.quarin.com
(fifth best score of the Grands Crus Classés. I think that this score should be higher considering the quality of the comment)GM.
Laroze 2008 Primeurs (87/90)
Grape, blackberry and tare aromas follow through a meduim body, with firm tannins and a solid finish. A compact wine.
(I can't really recognise Laroze 2008 in this comment...)GM.
James Suckling (USA)
(I can't really recognise Laroze 2008 in this comment...)GM.
James Suckling (USA)
Chateau Laroze 2006 (90+)
An outstanding
Alan Duran (February 2009)
Chateau Laroze 2007 (86-87+)
The tender and ripe
Alan Duran (February 2009)
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)