Monday 21 June 2010

2010 vintage. How is it going?

It is about time we reviewed the current vintage. It is now June and a few things have happened, so the emerging 2010 vintage can be contemplated with a certain degree of perspective.
Last winter was what I call a proper winter. It was cold like winters should be and the cold lasted right through to the end. I don’t follow rainfall from October to February, because the rain gauge breaks when it freezes, but it seems, in looking the stats that we had a normal a amount of rain.

We didn’t have any real warmth until April, when a good ten-day spell of heat kick-started vine growth. Up to then the vines still had a distinctly wintry look about them. We quickly returned to cold weather at the end of April and at the beginning of May, which was sharp and longer than usual, and really halted the growth of vegetation. We got through the period when frosts can do damage at the end of April, but only by the skin of our teeth at the full moon on the 28th. May really only started to warm up in its second fortnight, but we didn’t see growth take off as clearly and vigorously as we would like at this time of year. The vines began to flower in the last week of May at Laroze, where the ground is warm and early. The Merlot vines flowered in damp conditions which were colder than average, but the fine weather and normal temperatures finally returned the following week with a breeze just right to promote good fertilisation of the flowers. The earliest Merlot vines will doubtless display poor fruit set and “hens and chickens”. The later Merlot will be good, as should all the Cabernet, which flowered splendidly. The Merlot vines flower longer over time.
At the same time there was an early lack of water in the ground, which slowed initial growth down even more. Rainfall was significantly low in March, April and May, when it rained 30% less than the seasonal average, which is enormous. This represents a shortage of about 100 mm of rain in these three months that begin the growth cycle. One of the consequences of this is that the goodness in the organic material that was spread on the plots of vines that were lacking a little in vigour in spring, did not penetrate the soil, so the vines did not receive the boost at the time when they most needed it. As a result, growth is quite irregular in mid-June with a lot of bunches on stalks, which are sometimes a little short and with too few leaves, which will not be enough to feed all the fruit adequately. The bottom line is there are too many mouths to feed and not enough food on the vines which didn’t get enough water and warmth at the right time.
So the specific characteristics of the beginning of the 2010 vintage are a winter that lasted and spring drought, which will leave their mark in different ways depending on the different terroirs and what happens next in the ensuing seasons.
It is quite unusual to see drought setting in so early, with lawns already slightly brown and underground drain outlets showing so little flow.
The hydric stress of the vines that we hope occurs in August so that the fruit ripens well, is coming a month and a half early. This will have an impact depending on the weather that follows.
However, we don’t want the 100 mm of missing rain to fall now or lasting bad weather to set in. We hope that storms will deliver the water required at regular intervals so that the vines will be regularly fed, but without any damage from hail or flooding.
We will take what God sees fit to give us and the different terroirs’ water retention capacity will do the rest.
Whatever happens, the intelligence of the winegrower also has a role to play and we will adapt what we do in the vineyard to promote the retention of water in the soil and reduce transpiration loss by trimming lower parts of the vines and destroying the patches of grass between the rows.
I was a little taken aback a few days ago to see that some of my colleagues thought that everything was fine as the year begins. They could well receive a rude awakening later on.
Every year is different and if the conditions are identified properly and well understood by the vinegrower, he can reduce the impact on the quality of the fruit and optimise the quality of the wines produced. This is what our profession is all about and what is at the heart of the passion that drives us to live so close to Nature and work in conjunction with her.