Wednesday 28 April 2010

Notes on the notes

I’ve finished reviewing the press response to the 2009 primeurs, or at least those I am aware of. In overall terms, the general message is that Laroze’s position amongst the Saint-Emilion crus classés has moved upwards with an average score of 16-17, which is very good from the journalists who habitually give fairly low scores, and a little low for those who tend to mark higher.
I often feel there is a mismatch between the quality of the tasting comments, which are enthusiastic and the score, which still remains quite inhibited, as if the journalist was afraid of letting go. It is a lot easier for them to be more generous with strong, well-known brands, because there is no risk for them except that of over-evaluating the wine. They have to stick their necks out to be generous about Laroze. So I have a clear vision of how I need to work with them to get them to know Laroze better, especially the older vintages, which often display surprisingly long-lasting youth in their aromatic freshness. Jean-Marc Quarin is an example: author of an enormous in-depth review of Bordeaux wines, having published his 13th report today, was the first commentator some years ago to discover that Laroze was capable of producing some fine successes.
The arrival of Hubert de Boüard in Laroze’s team of technical advisors brings visibility and credibility for journalists, which will reassure them and strengthen their belief that Laroze is a fully reliable Saint-Emilion, which it would be a shame to omit from one’s cellar.

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